The Aster flower is an easily grown sun loving perennial. It comes in a variety of colors and shapes. If you already have asters then you that they are easily grown from divisions, this is simply dividing the plants into smaller sizes for replanting. They do extremely well when planted then divide every two or three years. Simply thin, them out and replant in another sunny location.
Asters can be started from seeds directly into the ground or indoors and later transplanted into your garden when the warmer weather arrives.. If you start them indoors and, start them in pots and then transplant the young plants outdoors in spring when all danger of frosts have passed, If you choose to plant them outdoors, plant them early in the season ( after danger of frost ) covering them lightly with soil and water them well.
Since asters germinate quickly and grow easily you will almost assuredly have a continual display by mid summer. Asters do well in average soil, but like anything else, plants will grow well when properly fed and watered, therefore giving you healthy plants and lots of blossoms. Before planting mix a little compost into the soil and feed them with a general purpose fertilizer once a month. Keep the soil moist, but not wet and water well during hot dry spells, at least once or twice a week, this will keep them vibrant. Adding a little mulch around them will not only keep the weeds down but will enhance and beautify their appearance,
In mid summer they will begin to blossom and do so until frost. There is no need to cut back or remove the dead flower blooms, but by doing so it will improve the plant. If you chose to plant the large variety, you will need trim back any stalks that have become long and gawky. After they have become well established they will grow well for years to come. Usually resistant to disease and insects, if they do become so treat with an organic or chemical insect repellent and a fungicide.
Since asters grow on sturdy stalks this makes the good candidates for cut flowers for floral arrangements. When cutting, cut the stems low, checking for insects (you don’t want them inside), then immediately placing them into water. Asters will also make beautiful decorative plants on your patio or deck when planted in container pots.
When you plant, try planting small to large with small ones in the front, then the medium sizes then the tall ones using different arrays of color for an absolutely gorgeous blend of color and height enhancing the beauty of your home and garden.
Eudora DeWynteroffers tips on Fall Gardening on her blog athttp:www.gardentoolguru.com

If you are a dedicated gardener, you know about the importance of having your own little greenhouse. Professional growers have long since learned to employ the advantages of these hothouses, and have realized profits for decades simply because they were often times able to get a head start on growing seasons, or coax hard to find flowers and plants out of the protective shells of their seeds. Yet no matter whose hothouse you visit, you will find that there are several greenhouse accessories that appear to be a must for savvy gardeners.

Greenhouse accessories are almost always practical in nature, although sometimes they may be considered more ornamental and for aesthetics. While savvy gardeners do not mind having beautifully adorned greenhouses, they are more concerned with the functional aspects.

Once accessory you should always have on hand are replacement parts. Sure, your greenhouse is in good repair, and you do not foresee having to replace anything. But if it is Saturday afternoon and you suddenly notice that your greenhouse has a missing window pane, or a loose door, you do not want to drive all over creation in the hopes that somebody is stocking the very product that you need right now! For this reason it is a good idea to have spare panes, as well as nuts and bolts that repair loose or lost items.

Other greenhouse accessories include plant stands, insulation, plant hooks, watering systems, and also ventilation systems. Even if you do not foresee needing one of these things right this minute, it never hurts to be prepared for when you do need it. After all, you do not want to loose an entire crop simply because you were not able to quickly adjust the temperature in your greenhouse, do you?

About the Author: Michelle Torres has nearly 20 years experience using and designing greenhouses and is an avid gardener. You can find additional useful information about greenhouses and greenhouse gardening at http://www.greenhousecatalog.com

Now that the dog days of summer have finally passed, it’s time to start thinking about a few key fall gardening chores. These tasks will both provide you with colorful fall foliage as well as protect your summer plants for the following season. Gardeners also need to know what type of bulbs to plant that are strong enough to stand up to the sometimes harsh autumn weather conditions.

You don’t have to forget about fresh herbs just because its fall, simply bring your fresh herbs indoors to the safety of your home. Not all herbs are capable of growing indoors so you should read up and select the varieties that will prosper in home conditions. Herbs such as thyme, rosemary, or even parsley should survive the fall season indoors. Location of the herbs will play a major role in their survival so be sure to place them somewhere they can receive the much needed sunlight, as many herbs require up to six hours per day, and others wont require much sunlight at all. Misting will keep your herbs happy during the fall and winter months because your herbs won’t require everyday watering to keep them nourished.

Don’t wait until the first frost to bring all of your houseplants indoors. The optimum time to bring them in is when the outside temperature is near the temperature indoors. Basically, if you feel comfortable leaving your windows open all day then it is time to bring your houseplants in for the fall to get them acclimated to the indoor conditions. During the summer season, it is possible that your house plants may have gathered various outdoor pests such as ants. To get rid of pests you should treat your plants with a mild insecticide prior to bringing them indoors. Washing the leaves of your houseplants with a mixture of mild soap and water may also be a good idea. Just like your herbs, your house plants will not require an abundance of watering during the fall and winter months.

Pay attention to your local weather forecasts and research when you are expected to receive the first frost of the season. Six weeks prior to the first frost is the perfect time to dig up and divide some of your crowded spring perennials. It is wise to know the plants in your garden because not all perennials need to be divided. This task will ensure that your spring and summer plants will be better adapted to handle the harsh fall and winter and will return healthy the following spring.

Fall is the perfect time to plant many of your spring bulbs like tulips and daffodils. This will allow the bulbs to better acquaint themselves to the soil around them during fall and winter resulting in better growth when spring rolls around. Just after the first hard freeze is also a good time to dig up your summer bulbs such as gladiolus. Once again, you should know your plants and which ones need to be dug up.

There are a range of plants and vegetation that thrive in fall like conditions and will provide your garden with both life and color all season. Often referred to just as Plumbago, Ceratostigm Plumbago makes a very colorful ground cover for your fall garden. It’s low growing, steadily spreading habit and deep blue hues add both greenery and color to your garden. These fall plants require them to be planted in either full sunlight or very little shaded areas, and in very fertile well-drained soil.

When the cooler temperatures come the foliage will take on a reddish bronze tone. Coreopsis, or better known as Tickseed, is perfectly suited for any fall garden. It has an almost daisy like quality and is perfect as groundcover, in front of bordering or as under-planting. Coreopsis requires little water but should be planted in full sunlight for the best results. Asters are a great way to add much needed color to your fall garden. They vary in color from white to pink or blue and are perfectly adept at surviving fall conditions. Mums are also a great way to add some flair. They have a tight, mounded habit and a stunning bloom cover available in several colors which make this plant perfect for your fall mass planting projects.

Remember, when fall approaches there are several tasks that are required to keep your plants healthy and plenty of species that will keep your garden alive and colorful even in autumn. Make sure you research any bulbs you plant in fall and follow the planting guidelines to ensure the best results. Give your plants the proper sun exposure and water. Follow these simple tasks and your garden will remain bright and colorful nearly all year round and make you the envy of your neighborhood.

Do you find your water bill going up each month you water your landscaping along with the rest of your bills? You might even question just how much water your landscaping really needs. Perhaps it’s time for you to think about how to make your watering more efficient so you have beautiful landscaping but save water as well.
To water our landscaping, we use either some type of automated sprinkler system or a sprinkler that is dragged from spot to spot. Right from the big corporations right down to the homeowner with just a speck of a lawn, most people use or want to use some type of automated watering system. You have probably seen water from automated sprinkler systems running off the grass and running down the street. I don’t know about you, but here in the arid West, when I see this, it makes me quite angry. This even can be seen in droughts where a typical homeowner may have to water his plants with saved waste water from inside his home. This is not exactly an efficient use of water. All around the country there are problems with having clean water. It just doesn’t make sense to waste water.
Yet most landscaping owners use an inefficient and wasteful watering system. Here are a few tips to make watering your landscaping more efficient and less wasteful.
Watering systems for your landscaping vary. Find one that is most efficient for your needs. A good rule of thumb is that the larger the water drop delivered and the closer to the ground the better it is. Using a system that delivers a fine spray up into the air will lose much of the water to evaporation and to wind.
Surprisingly, hand held hose watering was found to be the most water-efficient way to provide moisture to your landscaping. It uses 33% less water than the average household uses to water their plants.
Studies found that of the automated watering systems, in ground sprinkler systems used 35% more and those with automatic timers use 47% more water than places that did not use such automated systems. These timesaving devices aren’t saving you money or water.
Adding rain sensors, or better yet, soil sensors to your automated watering system saves water. You don’t end up with the sprinkler system coming on in the middle of a rainstorm or right after one when the ground is already soaked.
Automated drip irrigation systems were found to be more efficient in the study using only 16% more than used by non-automated watering households. Add the above sensors and you will have an even better system.
Perhaps the best tip is to not over water. This goes to more than not watering after a rainstorm. It includes watering to your landscaping plants’ specific moisture requirements. Consider including less water intensive plantings in your landscaping. It means watering, as your soil requires. Adjust your watering schedule from that needed in the high temperatures of summer to the less watering needed in fall as temperatures go down.
Copyright 2005, Sandra Dinkins-Wilson

From backyard vegetable gardens to large ultra-modern farming operations, more and more growers are choosing organic fertilizers as a smart alternative to chemical treatments. Organic farming is certainly not new, but it has found a renewed interest as a means to improve the natural fertility of soil and farm resources. For many people, organic fertilizers provide the answer to nutrient deficiency in soil.

To produce their own natural organic fertilizer, some farmers use traditional practices such as recycling farm-produced livestock manure, practicing crop rotation, or composting organic materials. When factors like innate nutritional shortages in regional soils and high productivity demands make these traditional means inconvenient, farmers may choose to purchase organic fertilizers and soil additives from specialty suppliers and organic fertilizer dealers. Listed below is a resource for farmers and gardeners of organic fertilizer dealers and suppliers in the United States and bordering countries.

Acadian Seaplants Limited - http://www.acadianseaplants.com
This is an organic fertilizer dealer specializing in the largest supply of sea-based products. Based in Nova Scotia, Canada, Acadian Seaplants Limited derives its product line from seaweeds. Naturally sourced seaweeds included in Acadian Seaplants products include ascophyllum nodosum for rockweed and kelp meals, chondrus crispus (Irish moss), furcellaria lumbricalis, fucus vesiculosus (bladderwrack), laminaria digitata (kelp) and other seaweed species. Acadian Seaplants specializes not only in organic fertilizers, but is also the world

A flower garden will bring you endless enjoyment. Not only is it a feast for the eyes, but it can fill your yard with fragrance and butterflies. Your friends will admire you, and you will love to relax at home while you relish your creation.
But if you create your garden haphazardly, you’ll be very disappointed. For example, if you plant the lush, tall flowers on the edges of a flower bed, they will hide the shorter ones within. If you plant a bulb in a shaded area when it needs lots of sun, it will most likely die.
So, a successful flower garden requires planning, but don’t worry, that’s part of the fun. The planning stage gives you the opportunity to bring out your inner artist and problem solver.
The Basic Design Elements
Your design doesn’t have to be intricate. A basic layout is all you need to determine what you will plant in each flower bed. In doing so, you will make decisions about the color and height of each flower, so that you choose not just the color palette of your garden, but the vertical and horizontal dimensions as well.
First, look at each area of your yard to determine the amount of sun and wind it tends to receive. In the areas of most sun, you will choose flowers that love the sun, leaving flowers that prefer shade to the other areas of the yard.
The type of soil you have is another consideration. You will probably need to get it tested in order to know what plants will work for you or whether you need to add other elements to the soil in order to grow your preferred flowers.
You can start by making a simple drawing of your yard and where you would like to plant your flowers. Again, note the amount of sun and wind each area receives, and the size of each area. Next, you might make a list of your favorite colors and favorite flowers. If you know little about flowers, do some research in seed catalogs or online. When you find a flower that you like, search for the answers to the questions below to determine if this particular flower will work in your garden. If not, move on! You will find another that you like just as well, if not better.
Choosing Your Plants
Before you begin buying plants, you need to determine how much you can spend on your garden. Work out a budget so that you don’t over-spend. Then, consider the following questions for each flower:
1. How much does it cost, and will it fit into your budget? 2. Does it grow in your zone? 3. What kind of soil does it need? 4. How much sun does it require? 5. Can it withstand wind?
6. Is it hardy, or does it require special care? If so, do you have the time to provide this special care? 7. How tall does it grow, and will you be able to accommodate its height? 8. How long does it take to achieve a flowering plant? 9. Is it an annual or a perennial, and when does it flower?
Take a look at photos of flower gardens to get ideas, and think about how many flowers you want. You may decide to frame a particular flower with greenery or separate two types of flowers with a non-flowering plant. This is what florists do when they arrange flowers in a vase or basket. They surround the blossoms with greenery almost like the matting of a picture on the wall.
Don’t forget flowering trees and shrubs. These add special interest in your yard, as they give you different vertical heights and horizontal widths. Bear in mind that they tend to take longer to achieve the flowering stage, but it may well be worth the wait. A flower garden is not created in one year’s time. This is a long process that you will always be tending, so you need to enjoy the process as much as the result.
If you liked this article then you will be happy to know you can find many other articles on Flower Gardening at www.Flower-Gardener.com

There are many greenhouse accessories you will need when you decide to build a greenhouse. Some of these greenhouse accessories are crucial to the success of the greenhouse.Greenhouse ventilation is an area that can not be forgotten when it comes to greenhouse accessories. It is probably the most important requirement for a greenhouse. Ventilation has two purposes; it provides fresh air to plants and it also provides cooling. If you do not have proper ventilation your plants will not grow and flourish.

Vents and fans can be used as ways to provide greenhouse ventilation. Exhaust fans blow the hot, stale air out of the greenhouse and bring cooler, fresh air into the structure. Vents can be used to supply fresh air to the plants and they also help to cool the greenhouse.

Heating a greenhouse is also a necessity in most parts of the country. What you need will vary depending on how the greenhouse is used and what the desired temperature is. There are several types of heaters available. At the very least, an emergency heater should be on hand for unexpected dips below freezing.Shade covers can block the hot rays from the sun when needed. Shade covers will keep the greenhouse at a cooler temperature during long, hot summers.

Don’t forget about flooring. The floor of your greenhouse is functional and also can be aesthetic. Take a look at your choices and find the flooring that is best for your needs.

Finding the right greenhouse accessories will complete your greenhouse.

About the Author: Michelle Torres has nearly 20 years experience using and designing greenhouses and is an Oregon avid gardener. You can find additional useful greenhouse information at http://www.greenhousecatalog.com

by Louanne Baelde

Landscaping with wildflowers is becoming increasingly popular. These wonderful displays of beauty are incredibly self-sufficient. Wildflowers dazzle your gardens with sprays of color with a powerful endurance not often noted in domesticated garden flowers. No need to worry about soils of low fertility; wildflowers adapt wonderfully in these types of soil.

Meadow gardening is becoming quite popular with its native wildflowers and non-competitive grass. Combine these two to create a panoramic garden of beautiful colors and shapes. Natural habitat will love it too! Can you think of a better way to relax than to stroll amongst paths of endless color and natural beauty?

Wildflowers are low in cost as they reseed themselves and bloom again the following year. They are also easy to maintain as they basically need no fertilizing or trimming, and require little water.

How To Plant Wildflowers

Site Selection

For best results, choose a location where there is full sunlight.

Soil Preparation

To prepare small areas for your wildflowers, start first by removing the weeds already in your garden. This should be followed with raking or roto-tilling the soil.

For large areas, mow the plants or foliage as short as you can and then follow this step by using a flail mower or harrow. This will allow you to break up the top two inches of the soil.

Make sure to water these areas several times during the first two or three weeks. This will encourage the weed seeds to germinate. After a few more weeks, spray the weeds with Clear-It and remove all of the dead plants. Wait at least one to two weeks before you plant the wildflower seeds.

It’s actually better not to fertilize the soil for your wildflowers, as they do best in low-fertility soil. High nitrogen soils increase the number of weeds in your wildflower garden and diminish the view of your flowers.

Planting Time

The time to sow is in the Spring. You can plant your wildflowers in the summer if there is a lot of water available, but your planting will not continue the following year, unless it is planted about 8-10 weeks before the predicted frost.

It is alright to plant later in the fall; wildflower seeds will begin to grow in the spring. The disadvantage of planting at this time is that the warmer weather conditions and rain could cause the seed to germinate and then may die during the winter from the freezing. There is also the possibility of the seeds being eaten by birds when they are sitting on the ground for longer periods of time.

Planting Methods

Because of the huge difference in sizes of the seeds, blending fine sand and vermiculite (2:1 sand to seed) is recommended for wildflowers. This will allow more even distribution.

Hand-scattering the seeds in small areas, works very well. Cover up the seed by raking it in to about a depth of 1/8-1/4 of an inch. Do not cover the seeds too deeply, or it will fail and your work will be all for nothing.

Post Planting Care

You must keep the soil, where the seeds are planted, moist for at least 4-6 weeks and water if necessary to encourage germination. As the plants gradually begin to grow, you can water less. Many wildflowers need little water to coexist, but they still need a fairly adequate amount in order to germinate.

Seedling should start to appear in 2-3 weeks and you should see your first flowers in about 6-10 weeks.

Around the middle of October, when most of the flowers have finished blooming, you can mow the area to a height of about 4-6 inches. This will help to disperse the matured seeds for the following year.

Add new seed the following spring, to discourage weed growth and to establish the planting.

For more great gardening tips: http://www.ez-gardening-tips.com

The edging of a garden is almost as important as the garden
itself. It’s like a picture frame. The picture can be
interesting and beautiful, but it needs a frame to really
enhance its appearance.
There are many different types of garden edgings. Many people
prefer to use something heavy and permanent, like a low brick
wall, or rocks set together with mortar. However, not everyone
is physically capable of creating such a structure.
Bricks set freely can be just as effective. They can be placed
in a simple line, end to end, or stacked in a double row, with
gaps in between. They can also be set diagonally, leaning
against each other for support.
Another attractive idea is to decorate short lengths of board
with old tiles. Tiles can often be purchased very cheaply from
re-cycling places. Glue your choice of tile along the board
using an outdoor glue. On each end of the board, tack a peg with
one end pointed. This will be used to push into the soil to
support your board and keep it off the ground.
Bush rocks are another easy idea to give your garden that
finished look. They need not be too big, unless you have plenty
of muscle or help. You may be able to gather rocks from a
friends farm, or from the bush if that is legal in your area.
Otherwise, garden suppliers usually have plenty to choose from.
Yet another idea is to create a living edging. Choose a plant
that will be suitable for your climate and conditions. The
pretty pink of alpine phlox is an attractive border and the
plants can be divided and planted again and again. Many other
plants can be propagated in this way, thus reducing the initial
costs. Of course, your border will take a little more time to
get established than if you bought all the necessary plants at
once.
Gazanias are another hardy border plant that can be divided many
times. Bulbs might seem like a good choice too, but remember
that they will die down and leave your borders looking messy for
ages. Also, they remain dormant for at least six months, so if
you plant anything else there you risk damaging the bulbs. Of
course, you can dig them up and replace them with something
else, but you may prefer a more permanent border edge to save on
the workload.
If you have a larger garden, comfrey is a plant to consider
using for an edging plant. Its thick growth habit will prevent
any grasses intruding into the garden, and the leaves can be
pulled for excellent mulch around roses or other plants. It has
delightful, dainty flowers in season too. However, a small
garden could be overwhelmed by more than one comfrey plant.
In a small garden attractive annuals like sweet alice, pansies,
violas or petunias make great borders. For something a bit
different, try an herb border. Then you can go out and pick your
herbs any time you want. Chives have a crisp green color that
would make your garden sparkle while strawberries will entice
the kids out into the fresh air to have a healthy snack.
Some people prefer to simply bevel an edge around their garden
with the shovel. This is a good option if your lawn has the sort
of grass with runners, like kikuyu. Those runners can be kept
under control by chopping them off every so often with the edge
of the shovel.
Whatever option you choose, it will enhance your garden to have
a beautiful edging

It is becoming more and more obvious these days that we need to recycle as much as we can, and anyone with a garden has a head start and can make a great contribution. To many novice gardeners, including myself, this subject can be somewhat difficult to grasp; but in fact it is really straightforward - there are just a few very simple rules:
You need a compost bin, and the type you decide on rather depends on the size of your garden, but there are a couple of options:
A purpose built plastic bin purchased from a garden centre, not too expensive; and you just fill up from the top and a few months later, you can take compost from a small hatch at the base. Alternatively, if you can wield a saw and some nails, you can make a wooden slatted enclosure, one metre square - or you can buy them ready made - and cover it with a piece of old carpet to keep the worst of the weather off.
What you can compost:
- all uncooked vegetable and fruit peelings - teabags, tea leaves and coffee grounds - egg shells - dead flowers from the house - and from the garden, soft prunings - spent bedding plants, dead leaves, lawn mowings - spent compost from hanging baskets or containers - some dryer materials such as shredded pape - rabbit and guinea pig bedding.
The only thing you have to be careful about is to mix different types of material; if you have too many grass clippings in a big mass, they will turn soggy and slimy, or if there is too much paper and prunings, it will be too dry. So keep an eye on it, especially if you are using the wooden enclosure, and mix it with a fork occasionally.
What NOT to compost:
- all meat products and bones; bread, cooked food - these will attract vermin - dog or cat waste - woody material - which takes too long to compost - weeds - these can ‘infect’ your compost with their seeds - anything that is non-biodegradable.
And because you won’t always feel like taking a trip to the compost heap when it’s wet or cold or every time you peel vegetables why not keep a lidded container by the back door which you can fill up and then make the trip to the compost bin every one or two days?
Over a period of time - 3 months to 1 year, depending on conditions - all this matter will have broken down into lovely dark brown crumbly compost, which you can fork into your beds and borders. It makes an excellent soil conditioner and can be used as surface mulch, helping conserve moisture and discourage weeds.
You can also convert fallen leaves into wonderful compost. Rake up any leaves from your lawn - you may have to do this several times over the autumn - and collect them from the borders. Put them all into a black waste sack, sprinkle with water, put a few holes around the sack with a fork, tie the top, and leave it in a corner for about a year. What you end up with is known as leaf-mould.
About The Author:
Fran Barnwell is a self-taught gardener, learning through experience in her own garden. Fran understands the difficulties that face new gardeners, and has written The Ultimate Guide to Gardening for Beginners, a successful eBook that helps anyone new to gardening to get started, explaining the basics in easy to understand terms. To find out more and to sign up to receive a free series of articles, go to www.NewToGardening.com